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Choosing the right wood burning tool is crucial for a successful pyrography experience. Consider factors such as temperature control, interchangeable tips, and ease of use. Start with a basic model that suits your needs and upgrade as you gain more experience.

 

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Some artists convince themselves early in their learning curve that they could create better work if only they had better tools. While sometimes this can be the case, usually the quality of one’s work comes from practice and learning the tools you have. The artist uses the tools; the tools don’t make the artist. Great art is possible with simple tools.

 

I have both the Walnut Hollow Creative Versa-Tool and the Razertip dual pen system, but I use the Versa-Tool for most of my work. Both units are very nice, but once again this comes down to my personal preference.

 

2. Choose the Best Wood for Pyrography

Not all woods are created equal for pyrography. Opt for softwoods like pine, basswood, or birch for beginners, as they burn more smoothly. Hardwoods like oak and maple can be challenging for newcomers due to their density.

 

There are many different types of wood that can be burned on safely. I’ll be covering some of the more common and easily accessible wood species. Remember that even a safe type of wood becomes dangerous to burn once it has been clear-coated, painted, treated, etc. Always burn on unfinished wood only. If you’re unsure whether or not you can burn on a particular species of wood, please contact a forestry specialist.

 

Basswood is one of the most popular woods to burn on and is certainly my personal preference. It can be a little more expensive that other common wood types, but it can make a huge difference in your quality of work. Basswood is also known as Linden and is found in eastern North America. It has a very light color, with minimal grain and growth rings which makes it especially nice to burn on. Since it is a popular wood for woodburning artists and carvers alike, basswood comes in a variety of different sizes, styles and cuts.

 

The lighter color of basswood makes it great for a wide range of tones, from jet blacks to blonde highlights.

 

Birch is quite light and it has an overall uniform appearance with minimal grain. It’s often sold in a plywood form. If you choose to burn on birch plywood be sure you don’t burn deeply into the lower layers of glue. (As a personal rule, I never burn solid black backgrounds on any plywood-based wood to avoid releasing potentially toxic fumes.)

Pine is easy to find at most craft stores and lumber shops and it’s usually inexpensive. However, it can be challenging to burn on. The heavy grain can cause your point to zig and zag, which makes it difficult to burn straight lines. Some artists have good luck burning on “kiln-dried” pine, but most pieces of pine that are readily available haven’t gone through this process. Therefore pine contains a lot of pitch and it creates a lot of smoke when burned on.

 

If you choose to burn on pine, I recommend using a respirator suited for particulates or work in a well-ventilated area.

Cherry is a beautiful wood that is quite soft. Even though the grain is very visible, the lines don’t interfere with the point of the burner. This wood burns on the darker side very easily, and lighter shading produces a slightly reddish tint.

 

Because cherry is darker than other woods, adding paint or colored pencils after burning can produce amazingly vivid results.

Much like Cherry, Butternut is also a darker wood and is quite soft.  I find that it is well-suited to darker subjects and it combines nicely with paint or colored pencils. These butternut slices are quite large, with some interesting knots and irregularities. I purchased these from a private supplier but you can find them online from speciality lumber shops.

Other popular surfaces for pyrography include:

 

Maple

Italian Poplar

Watercolor Paper

Gourds

Leather

 

3. Materials to Make Wood Burning Easier

Gather essential materials such as sandpaper, a pencil for sketching, carbon paper for transferring patterns, and masking tape to secure the pattern on the wood. Having these materials on hand will make the wood burning process smoother.

 

1.       Needle-nosed pliers: For installing and removing interchangeable points.

1.2. Tape measure: Used to measure the wood dimensions for the design and layout.

1.3. Clear tape: To affix a reference photo onto the wood while transferring with graphite paper.

1.4. Sandpaper 220-600 grit: To sand the wood before burning.

1.5. Scissors: For cutting out the reference photo.

1.6. Knife blade: For scraping or removing woodburning mistakes.

1.7. Red ball point pen: When transferring an image with graphite paper, a red pen often shows up better that a black pen.

1.8. Graphite paper: To transfer a design or image onto the wood.

1.9. Timer: To keep track of hours in a project if you bill by the hour.

1.10. Soft pad or beanbag: To help support your wrist while burning.

1.11. Glove: To help protect your hand from accidental burns.

1.12. Respirator: To protect your lungs when applying clear coats, finishes, stains etc.

1.13. Dust mask: Always wear a dust mask when sanding.

 

4. Wood Burning Safety

Safety should always be a top priority. Use the wood burning tool in a well-ventilated area, wear protective gear like gloves and safety glasses, and be cautious of hot surfaces. Follow the manufacturer's safety guidelines for your specific tool.

 

Woodburning is a delightful artform full of many possibilities. Because of its versatile nature, it’s a good idea to learn more about the safety aspects of the art. Some woodburning tools can easily reach over 1,000 degrees F therefore they present a possible danger of fire and personal burns. These tips can help you enjoy the art of woodburning safely.

 

To reduce the risks of fire:

  • Never leave a woodburner unattended.

  • Keep combustible materials away from the hot tool.

  • Keep pets and children away from the unit.

  • Secure the hot burner with a stand or holder.

  • Keep cords out from under foot.

  • Use common sense when handling the hot tool.

  

For personal safety:

  • Burn in a well-ventilated area.

  • Give yourself plenty of room to work.

  • Wear a glove while burning to help protect your fingers.

  • Never change out points with your hands, instead use needle-nosed pliers.

  • Don’t burn near water or liquids.

  • Work on an incline to allow heat to rise up and away from your hand.

  • An inclined surface can also help your back and neck.

  • Never use a woodburning tool during an electrical or thunder storm.

  

To protect your lungs:

  • Burn on unfinished wood only.

  • Never burn over wood with a clear-coat, varnish, paint, etc. Doing so could produce toxic fumes.

  • Only add color after the burning is complete. Burning over pigments can also create toxic fumes.

  • Never burn on plastic, medium-density fiberboard (MDF), particle boards or any wood that is bound together with glues.

  • Always wear a dust mask when sanding.

  • Use a respirator for applying clear-coats.

  • If you burn on leather, choose vegetable-tanned leather only.

  • Do your research before attempting to burn on a new wood species. Most woods are safe, but a few can produce toxins when burned. There are some resourceful websites on wood safety, however if you’re unsure then consult a wood specialist.

  

To protect the woodburner:

  • Never change out points when a burner is on. You can damage the threads and/or shear the point off completely. Always wait until the woodburner has completely cooled before replacing points.

  • Use light pressure when burning. Pressing down firmly can bend or damage the points or burner.

 

5. How to Prepare the Wood for Pyrography

Prepare your wood surface by sanding it to create a smooth canvas for your designs. Remove any dust or debris to ensure a clean burn. Consider applying a base coat of varnish or wood conditioner to enhance the burning process.

 

When selecting wood for a project look for one that is solid, with little or no cracks. Sometimes adding heat with a woodburning tool can make a small crack widen and expand, and in some cases can even split the wood apart.

Some imperfections in wood such as knots, mineral deposits and blemishes are expected, but try to find a piece of wood with as few flaws as possible. Sometimes you can position those faults into a dark area of fur or hide them in a black background. Feel free to turn the wood for the best positioning.

Avoid touching the front of the sanded wood with your fingers. Our fingers and hands contain natural oils which can be deposited onto the wood. These oils can show up after burning your image. Also avoid handling your wood after applying lotions to your hands. I get in the habit of washing my hands before burning to help remove any substances that might stain or damage the wood.

Most wood comes planed and ready to use, however it helps to sand the wood prior to woodburning. This makes an even surface and helps reduce the buildup of carbon on the woodburning points. Always wear a dust mask when sanding.

 

Start by sanding the front of the wood with a rough grit sandpaper and work towards a 220 grit sandpaper, then 330 grit. This is adequate for most purposes, but if you’d like an extra smooth surface you can sand with 400 grit or more. I usually sand to 600 grit but I know of other artists that sand up to 800 or 1200 grit; additional sanding is more of a personal preference. As a note, I don’t sand the backside of the wood.

After sanding, use a soft cloth to wipe down the surface of the wood.

You can even use canned air to remove the sawdust from rustic bark edges. Carefully gather up the sawdust and clean your workspace.

 

6. Wood Burning Ideas for Beginners

Start with simple designs like geometric shapes, patterns, or basic outlines. As you gain confidence, experiment with more intricate designs and gradually move towards creating your own unique pieces.

 

7. How to Transfer a Pyrography Pattern onto the Wood

Use carbon paper to transfer your chosen design onto the wood. Secure the pattern in place with masking tape, ensuring it won't move during the wood burning process. Trace the pattern onto the wood surface using a pencil.

 

After you have decided on your design, it’s time to put that image onto the wood. There are many ways to go about this. First of all, you can burn directly onto the wood without tranferring any guidelines. This is a true free-handing method, which can be free and spontaneous but can also be quite risky. It’s easy to make a mistake while burning but very difficult to “erase” or correct those mistakes.

If you enjoy free-handing your art but you’re afraid to go straight to the burner, you can draw your image onto the wood with a pencil, then burn over the top of your guidelines. This method allows you the freedom of free-handing with less risk of making an uncorrectable mistake. However, graphite pencil can be difficult to erase on a wooden surface, so you can free-hand your image plain paper first then transfer your design onto the wood using graphite paper.

Some artists use a printout and a hot-iron to transfer their image onto the wood, however I don’t recommend this method. Doing so can transfer printer ink onto the wood and burning over the top of the ink could produce health concerns.

 

I also recommend avoiding the use of “carbon paper” which leaves behind a potentially dangerous residue on the wood.

If you don’t like free-handing, or would like a faster method of transferring an image, you can use graphite paper. All you need is a print-out of your photo, graphite paper, tape and a pen.

 

I prefer using a red pen to transfer my guidelines when using graphite paper. Sometimes a black or blue pen can be difficult to see against a black-and-white or sepia-toned photo.

Securely tape your image onto the wood and slide the graphite paper between your image and the wood. (Note: make sure that the dark side of the graphite paper is down, and the shiny side is up.)

 

 

Begin drawing over the top of your reference image to produce a duplicate copy on the wood. I usually start by following the outer edges of my subject, then transfer the main features such as eyes and noses, etc. Lastly I focus on drawing over the different “topography” zones of each subject. These are those irregular-shaped areas that help to give realism and depth to a piece.

TIP: Don’t press too hard when using graphite paper or you could dent the surface of the wood and make transfer lines that are too dark.

After you’ve transferred your image, remove the graphite paper and assess your guidelines. If your transfer lines turn out too dark then I recommend sanding them before burning. Once you burn over them they can be very difficult to remove or hide later.

 

I often refer to these guidelines as “underwear lines” because they are important for personal use but it’s best to keep them hidden from view.

 

8. Time to Burn! Tips for Using the Wood Burning Tool

Practice control and precision by starting with light strokes. Experiment with different tips to achieve varying textures and effects. Allow the tool to heat up before beginning, and practice on a scrap piece of wood before working on your main project.

 

When using a soldering iron type of burner, such as the Walnut Hollow Creative Versa-Tool, allow it to warm up for about 5 minutes before working. Always be sure that the burner is secure and don’t leave it unattended while warming up.

A burning unit with nibs or pens usually heats up immediately and doesn’t require a wait time.

Your hand will get hotter if you're working on a flat surface. Try switching to an incline... It allows the heat to rise away from your hand instead of directly underneath.

I use an art table that has an adjustable top. You can also use a small, tabletop easel or just prop up your work using books.

Tip: Soldering iron based woodburners, such as the Walnut Hollow Creative Versa-Tool, can cool down with use. The wood pulls the heat out of the point so it helps to be extra patient and allow the burner to heat back up after burning over large areas.

Be careful not to burn too hot, too fast. While it’s tempting to turn the temperature dial to maximum, this can easily damage the surface of the wood, especially when using pen and nib burners such as the Razertip. Burning too hot will also produce “over-burn” and can produce excessive carbon buildup on the points.

 

Also, if your burner is digging into the wood, much like a farmers’ plow, then you’re using too much heat or pressing too hard.

Always use pliers to change out solid points. Note: Never change out points when the burner is hot! You can damage the threads or break the points and burner. Always wait until completely cool before switching out points.

Always use light pressure when woodburning. Most wood will compress or dent somewhat when you burn across it, however if you press down really hard when burning you can bend or break the point and/or burner. “Float” the point across the surface of the wood lightly, moving slowly and burning with heat instead of pressure.

Temperature control

 

Most woodburning tools come with an adjustable temperature dial. This allows the user to easily increase or decrease the temperature of the woodburning point. When using a soldering-iron type of burner remember to allow a few minutes for the burner to adjust for temperature changes. Pen-type burners usually adjust temperature very quickly.

 

If your burner does NOT have an adjustable setting there a few ways to cool the point manually. You can set up a fan to continually blow air onto the point, or you can lightly blow on the point with your breath. (This is something I do often, even while using an adjustable burner. It’s a quick and easy way to lower the temperature while working.)

 

You can also control the darkness of your lines by practicing your stroke speed. The faster you move a point across the wood, the lighter the line will be. By contrast, your lines will be darker if you move the point very slowly.

Cleaning Carbon Off of Points

 

It’s common to develop some carbon build-up on your woodburning points over time. This residue can impede the transfer of heat and makes burning more difficult. Carbon build-up can be caused by burning a lot of black tones and working on sappy wood, such as pine.

 

You can clean off the carbon by using an extra-fine grit sandpaper and lightly sanding the surface of the point.

 

9. How to Wood Burning Fix Mistakes

Mistakes are part of the learning process. Use sandpaper to gently remove any unwanted burns or errors. Take your time and focus on refining your technique to minimize mistakes in the future.

 

10. How to Add Color to Wood Burning

Enhance your pyrography project by adding color. Use wood stains, colored pencils, or watercolors to bring your design to life. Experiment with different techniques to find the one that suits your artistic vision.

 

Adding color to a woodburning can be exciting! It’s a great way to give pyrographic art a different dimension. The choice to add color is simply up to you and your preferences. Don’t be afraid to try new combinations of colorful mediums to your woodburnings.

 

Please remember to wait until the burning is complete before adding color of any kind. Burning over any paints or pigments can produce potentially toxic fumes. Always protect your health first by adding color last.

 

When planning to use color, it’s helpful to decide whether you want bold colors or more subtle coloring. I usually consider my subject when making this decision. If my woodburning includes a subject that is naturally very colorful, like a flower, then I’ll add brighter and bolder colors. However, if my subject is naturally more neutral, such as animal fur, then I’ll only add a touch of subtle coloring.

 

 

Acrylic paint offers a great range of bold colors in an easy to use water-based medium. Acrylics tends to be quite opaque, but they can also be applied to a woodburning in thin, watered-down layers.

 

I don’t pre-treat my woodburnings before adding acrylic paints. As long as you don’t use too much water, there’s very little risk of wood swelling or cracking. Just paint directly onto the wood.

Colored pencils are an easy way to add color without the setup and possible mess of using paints. They work best on mostly unburned wood, which allows the pigment from the pencils to adhere to the wood. There are many colored pencils on the market and most work fine on wood, although higher-quality pencils will definitely produce better results.

Watercolors are a great medium for free-flowing expression. The paint can be transparent or opaque, and offers an interesting twist to a woodburning.

 

Using watercolors directly on untreated wood can be quite frustrating because the water and pigments immediately soak into the surface of the wood. This prevents the artist from being able to manipulate the watercolors, and worse yet, the water-soaked wood can swell and crack. But, with a few simple steps to prepare the wood, you can enjoy watercolors with woodburning.

 

11. Protect and Seal Your Pyrography Project

Preserve your hard work by applying a clear wood sealer or varnish. This not only protects the wood but also enhances the overall appearance of your pyrography piece.

 

It’s important to protect and seal your finished woodburning. There are many great products on the market with multiple finishes such as matte, semi-gloss, and glossy.

 

I’m currently using three coats of water-based Polycrylic by Minwax, then add one coat of Permalac for UV protection. I encourage you to experiment with several options to see what works best for you.

Woodburning art can be quite sensitive to the harmful effects of the sun, so it’s helpful to apply a UV protectant. Some finishes come complete with UV protection but can create a yellowing-effect. Other products are non-yellowing but do not contain a UV protectant. Once again, feel free to experiment with different products.

 

Even with a UV protectant, I encourage artists and customers to hang their woodburning art away from direct sunlight. Some clear-coating products are advertised for “Exterior” use and will help to protect the wood, however, most woodburnings can fade significantly if placed in direct sunlight.

 

Wood burning is a rewarding and versatile art form that allows for endless creativity. With the right tools, materials, and techniques, beginners can embark on a journey to create beautiful and personalized pyrography projects. Remember to prioritize safety, practice regularly, and enjoy the process of bringing your artistic visions to life on wood.